BELGRADE SERBIA – A VIBRANT AND HISTORIC CITY
by Irene Butler
(For Travel Writers' Tales)

Knez Mihailova Boulevard

I' ve heard Belgrade described as “gritty exuberance” and think this is indeed a good way to characterize the dichotomy of the Serbian capital. The pedestrian boulevard Knez Mihailova bustles with locals and tourists frequenting the abundance of cafes, restaurants and designer fashion shops. After dark nightclubs spill over with spirited partiers partaking in Belgrade's renowned fast-paced nightlife. On side streets are the grittiest of aspects in the dull grey concrete of Soviet-era buildings rising like stalwart sentinels.

Republic Square – Prince Michael Statue

Further along on this lengthy boulevard is Republic Square with the National Museum and National Theatre.

Hotel Moskva

Nearby is the landmark Hotel Moskva, which first opened its doors in 1908; a major investment of the former Russian Empire. Over the hotel's history, its beds have been slept in by Albert Einstein; political leaders Yasser Arafat and Indira Gandhi; actors Jack Nicolson, Michael Douglas, Robert De Niro; producer Alfred Hitchcock…to name a few.

National Assembly

Across the street is the National Assembly. Gracing the entrance are sculptures (by Toma Rosandic dating back to 1938) of powerful steeds rearing up over herculean nude males.

Famed Statues – National Assembly

To me they seemingly are analogous of the Assembly being a match for any opposing power.

Entrance to Belgrade Fortress

Our next venture takes us upward to Belgrade Fortress (a.k.a. Kalemagdan Citadel) overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers. Battles have been fought here since Celtic and Roman times, but much of what stands today are 18th century Austro-Hungarian and Turkish reconstructions.

A Military Museum holds the history of the former Yugoslavia, the rule of Marshal Josip Broz Tito until 1980, through the Yugoslav Wars and break-up of Yugoslavia, to the bombings of Serbia by NATO in 1999.

Rosette Church – Belgrade Fortress

We climb higher to churches nestled near the hill's edge. The Ruzica Church (Rosette Church) was built from stone remnants of a Middle Age fort. Destroyed many times, its present form dates back to 1867.

Infantry soldier guards Rosette Church

Statues of a spearman from medieval times and a WWI infantry soldier stand guard. Byzantine icons fill the interior.

Chapel of St. Petka – Belgrade Fortress

Next is Chapel of St. Petka, built on top of a spring which is believed to be miraculous. A nun works at a small table in the chapel, filling plastic bottles embossed with a cross and Cyrillic script. I watch a lady purchase a bottle and immediately down it. I hand the nun a few “dinara”, gulp down half and pass the remainder to Rick saying, “This can't be bad as all of Belgrade has potable water and that it's probably blessed can't hurt.”

Rock Cave entrance – Belgrade Fortress

Outside the chapel are rock caves. In each semi-circular hollow is a pedestal with a picture of a religious figure, with more saintly images hanging against the walls.

Inside Rock Cave

Thin spirals of smoke rise in prayer from candles in the sand-filled ledges fronting the icons. It has now been six hours of tromping around the fortress grounds, and a good time to end an awesome day.

Palace of Princess Ljubica sitting room

The following morning we head to the Palace of Princess Ljubica. I have a ‘shucks' moment, learning coffee with a faux-princess in period-dress only happens on Saturdays.

Palace of Princess Ljubica visitor's room

As we meander through this sizable but modest home erected by Prince Milos Obrenovic I in 1831, we imagine the princess and their eight children rambling about while her Prince is out participating in uprisings against the Ottoman Empire.

We navigate to a tavern named “?”

Tavern with questionable name

In dingy surroundings we are partake a hearty chicken stew. Over a coffee chaser, our server Joseph fills us in on how the tavern became known as “?”. “Built in 1823 for Mr. Naum Icko, the appointed head of the merchant guild and trade council by Prince Milos, it became a house where eminent citizens came to discuss cultural and business opportunities. It is said the Prince forbade smoking outside this meeting place because of its being across the street from the Cathedral.” After many name changes and owners over the years, in 1892 it was dubbed “By the Cathedral” – but not for long, as church authorities found this insulting. The owner then put out a question mark sign as a temporary solution, which stuck to this day. It is now a municipal property still serving up great traditional food!

Skadarska area street

On our last evening we revisit one of our favourite Belgrade niches - the historic district Skadarska (or Skadarlija), with its cobblestone streets and colourful bohemian appeal. Sipping Turkish coffee in the relaxed atmosphere surrounded by local artsy types, I never want to leave this great city - but leave we must… with a bundle of fine memories.

View of confluence of Sava and Danube Rivers

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PHOTOS by Rick Butler