WORLD HERITAGE HALONG BAY
NORTH VIETNAM
By Chris Millikan

Our spectacular Uniworld holiday in Southeast Asia includes world-renowned Halong Bay.

Along the road from Hanoi, our coach ride north toward the Gulf of Tonkin exposes us to small villages and lush countryside. Along the way, we sight farmers working in leased rice paddies. Some still cultivate their little plots with water buffalo. Others plough larger tracts with small tractors. And teams of women hand-plant rice seedlings in flooded fields. “Our tropical climate permits three crops annually,” guide Tri states. “Farmers produce enough rice for their families and sell the surplus for export.” Unexpected ancestral burial shrines dotting these farmlands splash the green landscapes with pinks, yellows and maroons.

Rice fields on the way to Halong Bay

Midway, our coach wheels into a modern cooperative for restroom breaks, jokingly referred to as ‘happy room inspections' by our jovial guide. Many of us browse splendid silk merchandise of every description. Others watch artisans creating elaborate woven tapestries depicting iconic Vietnamese scenery. And we all try out the ice-cream bars!

Legs stretched, we roll onward and before long, sight the Bay. Tri fills us in, “Halong Bay covers over 1500 square kilometers and boasts almost 2,000 monolithic limestone islets. Long attracting locals to pristine waters and white sandy beaches, 1994's World Heritage designation revealed its wonders to international travelers like you! It also led to implementation of conservation plans for protection of this unique natural environment.”

At Bai Chay Harbour marina, Tri shepherds us onto Paradise Elegance. This classy French colonial-style ship features polished hardwoods, lustrous brass fixtures, wrought iron railings and an elegant central stairway. Expecting a humbler ‘junk' for this sleepover visit, our cabin proves stylish, comfortable and spacious. The window frames magnificent views of towering islands crowned with thick jungle vegetation.

Upstairs in the salon, hot and cold buffet lunches, gourmet desserts and luscious tropical fruit fuel afternoon adventures.

Small sampans whisk us to Bo Hon Island's concrete dock in the middle of Halong Bay. Tri explains that French explorers had discovered Sung Sot Caves in 1901. We join the crowd steadily climbing upward on over six hundred narrow stone steps leading to the cave mouth. Through its small entryway, the cavern opens dramatically, becoming higher, wider and increasingly spectacular. “The ‘ Surprise Caves' nickname suits perfectly,” I muse.

Sung Sot Caves found in 1901 by French explorers

Dimly lit pathways wind us through vast, cool chambers. Walls glisten and glitter. Stalactites drip from ceilings; stalagmites rise from the floor; crystalline pools sparkle. Tri's dancing laser points out formations resembling an elephant, horse, flower, tree and more.

Back on the Elegance, an afternoon tea complete with tiny tarts and cakes refreshes. While some of us unwind aboard, hubby Rick and a few hardier shipmates head for Ti Top Island, named for a Russian cosmonaut. “Tackling the 200 steep steps to Bai Tu Mountain's gazebo, I experienced vistas that Gherman Titov had loved when he visited in 1962,” he later reports. “Back down at the sandy beach, swimming in calm waters cooled me off!”

Halong Bay views

During Happy Hour, simple ‘cookery' lessons on the sundeck delight us. Chef teaches volunteers like Rick to make vegetable spring rolls. Soon afterward, everyone enthusiastically samples the creative results. Our sumptuous dinner offers signature national dishes such as grilled honey-marinated chicken, flavoured sticky rice with mushrooms and stir-fried mixed vegetables. And before retiring to our cabin, we're inspired to belt out some lively pop tunes as we pass through the Bar.

Rising before dawn, we enjoy slices of succulent watermelon and dragon fruit, flaky pastries and lattes before meeting fellow Tai Chi keeners on the top deck. Surrounded by tranquil crystal waters and mystic islands, we gently stretch our limbs to the new day.

Later relaxing on our cabin balcony, we miss our ride to the opposite side of Bon Hon Island. Luckily, a backup sampan rescues those who, like us, linger too long in the otherworldly quietude.

Local junk plying Halong Bay's scenic waters

We soon catch up with shipmates on a floating pier and everyone settles into flat-bottomed bamboo boats. Our orange lifejackets buckled, oarsmen propel us steadily toward Luon Caves. Passing under a limestone archway, we emerge among other boaters and kayakers in the turquoise lagoon. Tri points out several of the fifty resident monkeys playing along cliffs near the rugged shore. Chattering, they scurry along the slopes, swing effortlessly downward through dense foliage, perch on a shoreline platform and daintily nibble sliced fruit.

One of 50 resident monkeys at Luon Caves

Onboard one last time, we relish poached eggs on toast. Meanwhile, Paradise Elegance slowly encircles beautiful Halong Bay before returning us to the harbour. Just an 8-kilometer scenic cruise…but magical worlds away.

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Plan Your Trip:

• www.uniworld.com The Wonders of Vietnam, Cambodia and the Mekong and other itineraries.

Photos By Chris Millikan