MEXICO ROAD TRIP
By Jane Cassie
(For Travel Writers' Tales )

He opens the manila envelope and unfastens the massive clip that's securing the wad of documents. They are all in triplicate — everything from the paid auto insurance to our dog's rabies vaccine. He knows precisely where everything's located and has even highlighted the 'must remembers'.

My husband's fastidiousness can sometimes be grating. But today, at the Mexican customs office, after getting our mandatory permits and stamp of approval, I'm feeling grateful for his organizational skills and quirkiness. The border headquarters is the first stop and real eye-opener during our two day drive from Nogales to Mazatlan.

Nogales border and Trump's Wall

"This highway is supposedly pretty sketchy," I say to Brent as we pull out of the customs lot and pass two armed guards. "Don't worry, Hon," he responds. "Most of the violence happens after dark." I immediately check my watch and do a quick scroll on Google Maps. I'm relieved to see that my proficient travel guide has done the calculations. We should be rolling into Ciudad Obregón, for our overnighter, just before sunset.

One of the many tolls along the way

As well as permits, we've filled our pockets with pesos for the many tolls along the way. The cost from each booth doesn't break the bank and by travelling Highway 15, we're entitled to aid from the 'Green Angels' and, more importantly, some peace of mind. There are 'Libre' A.K.A. 'free' routes that bypass a few of the main hubs, but these pot-holed byways would likely trash our truck.

After two hundred and seventy-seven kilometres we bypass Hermosillo, the capital and largest city of the Sonora region, that overflows with a population of 868,000. Guaymas is the next significant landmark. This port city is popular for its giant shrimp and fresh-off-the-boat seafood. But it's also known for its crime, particularly surrounding the illegal drug trade. We see signs, directing us to this seaside haven — and we keep on trucking!

Shanty shacks and cardboard huts

A string of two-bit towns also dot the route, some hosting nothing more than a few shanty shacks or cardboard-sided huts. Speed bumps provide pre-warnings and as we slow down and rumble over the risers, the masses swarm; vendors selling juice concoctions, window washers with dirty cloths, children bearing outstretched hands. All are pedaling for a few pesos. We dig into our bottomless pockets, grateful that we are able to give.

Nothing resembling a Hyatt or Hilton

Over the entire day, we haven't passed by anything that comes close to resembling a Hyatt or Hilton and due to major construction and countless 'Desviacions,' (detours) our ETA is an hour later than my confident chaperone had expected. I'm feeling a little nervous about where we're going to shack up for the night. The sun is slowing dipping towards the ominous horizon as we cruise into Ciudad Obregón and I'm thinking even a Motel 6 would be inviting!

Residencial Galerias

Residencial Galerias, located in the heart of the city , ends up being a welcome surprise; updated room, walk in shower, courtyard pool, and a comfy bed that promises some much needed sleep.

"They have an airport shuttle service," I say to Brent, when reading about the amenities. "How long is the flight to Mazatlan?" Although I'm half joking, the thought of another drive day through this country of hardship doesn't thrill me. We've been told that sticking to this main route is pretty safe but our shiny truck feels like a beacon next to all of the vintage vehicles and rust-bucket moving vans.

Rust-bucket moving vans

Fortunately day two is surprisingly easier. Although the signs of destitution are clearly evident when passing through Navojoa, Los Mochis, Guasave, and other impoverished communities, I don't feel the same culture shock.

Make-shift cook station

In spite of the poverty, people seem happy and content. Some proudly display their goods; ceramics, flowers, produce. Others have make-shift cook stations, where Mexican favourites sizzle on outdoor grills. Everything is primitive and questionable. But there's no tension or apprehension. And as we drive on by, they smile and wave. Life is simple and slow. In a strange way, I feel envious.

Sandy beaches line the 21km long malecón

Our final destination of Mazatlan evokes a similar laid-back feel. Sandy beaches line its 21km-long malecón (boardwalk) where sunbathers unite and deep sea fisherman reel in a hefty catch. The Centro Histórico, or Old Mazatlán hub, features 9th-century landmarks including the performance hall, Teatro Ángela Peralta and the towering Immaculate Conception basilica. (pic #9)The modern district of Zona Dorada is known for nightlife and hotels. Over our two week stay, we explore it all.

Immaculate Conception basilica

When it's time to do the return trip to Nogales, I'm less sceptical. I know the route and feel comfortable with the culture. Little do I realize, there will be a much bigger problem a month from now. The Corona Virus is making its way to North America, and it will soon halt all future travel plans — even a simple road trip through Mexico.

Beach time with our pup

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IF YOU GO

Residencial Galerias - https://www.residencialgalerias.com/

PHOTOS by Brent Cassie